The weather will look like summertime, but the waves will remind us it's January.
A storm that formed off the coast of Japan about a week ago is pushing some very good size surf our way. The front-runners, or first waves, will begin showing up Saturday. The surf will continue to build throughout the day, eventually bringing 5'-7' waves to our coast by Saturday evening.
The first part of this swell should peak Sunday with waves in the 6'-8' range. More exposed west facing beaches may see some sets of up to 10'. Another surge will keep the surf large on Monday. In fact, we'll should see above average waves through next week.
A high surf advisory is in effect until 2:00pm Monday, but there's a chance that could be extended.
It's been awhile since we've had a decent swell come through. So, we can expect the sandbars to be disturbed and reshaped a bit. This could make for dangerous rip current conditions along our beach breaks. So, if you're out enjoying the beautiful weather at the beaches this weekend, do be careful.