A swell from a storm that formed off the coast of Japan about a week ago was expected to peak Sunday.
Waves were expected to peak in the 6'-8' range. More exposed west facing beaches may see some sets of up to 10'. Another surge will keep the surf large on Monday. In fact, we should see above average waves through next week.
With the big waves come very cold ocean water and dangerous currents, and the National Weather Service has issued a high surf advisory effective through Monday afternoon.
It's been awhile since we've had a decent swell come through. So, we can expect the sandbars to be disturbed and reshaped a bit. This could make for dangerous rip current conditions along our beach breaks. So, if you're out enjoying the beautiful weather at the beaches this weekend, do be careful.
The National Weather Service cautions that larger waves expected on Sunday may affect jetties, piers and entrances to bays and harbors.