If the name Milk Bar doesn’t cause you to break into a salty-sweet fever of desire, it should. Most New Yorkers are familiar with the smart and innovative delights of the Milk Bar, which include cereal milk ice-cream, kimchi and blue cheese croissants, cornflake-chocolate-chip-marshmallow cookies just to name a few. The chef and owner is Christina Tosi, who was recently nominated for a James Beard Award in the category of Rising Star Chef. One talented chef, indeed, as she releases her first cookbook Momofuku Milk Bar today.
Next week, 1st Look takes on the country’s most unique desserts. In preparation for the show, we thought it would be fun to ask Christina about her favorite dessert spot, the creative process, Milk Bar stories, and the upcoming holiday season.
What is the most unique dessert you've ever had that was not your own creation?
I really love the desserts at wd~50. They always have a great point of view, an anchor in a relatable flavor or flavor pairing, and they always push the envelope and challenge me as a diner and as a pastry chef.
What is your creative process like? Do your ideas come in dreams, do they come from being out in the world or is it more like mad scientist in a lab?
I get inspiration from nearly anything. At times an idea will come when I'm eating out, strolling or shopping. Other times it will come to me when I'm grocery shopping or cooking at home, using my empty pantry to put something together. But other times it will be all together mad scientist like, with 10 or 20 tests of flavors to see what pairs best, what tastes best as an ice cream, etc. The creative process is 24/7 for me.
Does New York City have an influence on your food creations?
I suppose it does, but I really take my influence from the kitchens and people I've worked with and baked with, from my grandma to Wylie Dufresne.
In the early Momofuku Milk Bar days of testing, was there a recipe that was just too weird to keep on the menu?
There were some flavors that some didn't love as much as I, like barbecue flavored ice cream during a "summer bbq" themed round of soft serve flavors. Banana green curry bread was either loved or hated by our customers. Some get it. Some don't.
Can you tell us what you're currently concocting for the Milk Bar?
We just made a limited edition cookie for our Brooklyn storefront (we do all the baking on the other side of the storefront in our kitchen), it's called "the ritz" and it's an homage to a butter cookie, like a Lorna Doone, but even more buttery, with ritz cracker crunch folded in. The ultimate salty meets sweet in a buttery cookie.
What's the most memorable comment you've ever received about your food?
My grandma gave me a thumbs up on the corn cookie. She is an Ohio native, and has been surrounded by cornfields all her life, so I consider her the expert.
If you weren't a chef, what else would you be doing with as much passion and creativity?
That's a tough one. I really wanted to be a mathematician or a translator (I studied math and Italian in school), but I ended up moving to NYC to hunt down a job that really let my passion and creativity meet a city with no bounds. I would love to be a teacher one day.
Since the holiday season is nipping at our heels, what advice do you have for all the non-bakers out there?
Keep it simple. You don't have to be a baker to make something great for a holiday dessert. Never underestimate the power of mail order: milkbarstore.com. Ha! Seriously though, caramelizing sugar in a pan, deglazing it with butter, tossing in some nuts, salt and rosemary can also be an unbelievable crowd pleaser and gift giving option too!
